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Grilling Fish Balinese-Style With Putu in Lovina, Indonesia
The aroma of freshly caught Mahi Mahi seasoned, wrapped in banana leaves, and smoking on a charcoal grill is enough to make you pay repeat visits to Warung Putu. Venture a little further east of Lovina, Bali to the village of Anturan and you’ll find this 3-table restaurant on the main strip leading to the beach. The fish pepes, combining fresh seafood, local spices, and the warmth of chef Putu Darsana and his wife Sami, makes a delicious and entertaining meal. Arrive early for dinner and friendly chatter easily becomes a cooking course. Putu explains what he’s grinding with the mortar and pestle then effortlessly demonstrates how to package the mixture into banana leaf parcels. He puts you to work at the grill, where fanning and flipping is done under Sami’s watch. Fifteen minutes later, with the other dishes Putu has miraculously prepared while you were sweating, dinner is ready.
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