Snorkeling in the Time Tunnels of Isabela-Galápagos, Ecuador
One hour south of Puerto Villamil, lava once flowed into the sea. Today, Los Túneles is a labyrinth of arches in crystal clear water where blue-footed boobies breed, sea lions frolic, penguins sun, tropical fish feed, white-tipped reef sharks rest, and turtles navigate their highway from the mangrove to the sea, politely passing each other in their respective lanes. Volcanoes Sierra Negra and Cerro Azul loom in the backdrop. We snorkel at sea with ten giant mantas, close enough to clip us. The sailor crosses himself before we surf the break with our small boat to enter Los Tuneles. Snorkeling inside, sea lions zoom to within inches of your face before an acrobatic and effortless turn. Penguins pose for photos inches above our heads. A school of fish part to reveal a huge turtle feeding on algae.

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