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Skirting Italy's Ancient (and Modern) Underworld in Lago D'Averno
When Aeneas (of the epic story, the Aeneid) needed to have a strategic heart-to-heart talk with his dead father, he came here to Avernus, the ancient gateway to the underworld. For such an illustrious place, you might expect hordes of tourists and vendors hawking River Styx tchotchkes, but nothing could be further from the truth. While at one time it was said to emit noxious bird-killing fumes that gave it a bad reputation, the Lago D'Averno is now a peaceful spot, a volcanic crater lake with views of the coast and a smattering of Roman ruins along the shore. Perhaps more recent news from the underworld is partially responsible for the tranquility. During the summer of 2010, the few businesses operating around the lake were seized by the Italian government, due to their connection with the Camorra mafia and a formidable money laundering scheme.
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