Jongno Street

The scent of grilled meats hangs in the air as the loud rhythmic beats grow stronger. The stringed Asian instrument music, sounding almost-but-not-quite out of tune to Western ears plays on a stage with dancing women. Their dresses of hot pink contrast sharply with their black hair, styled in a tight bun. They whirl in a circle, their large decorative fans almost like wings around them. Two spin round and round as the others perform a butterfly-like wave off to the side. As the music stops, they gracefully bow and depart.

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Lines of blue, pink, yellow, red, green, and orange paper lanterns float above our heads. The echoing sound of a massive gong being slowly, but repeatedly struck signals the beginning of the festivities. This is Seoul’s Lotus Lantern Festival, part of the week-long celebration of the Buddha’s birthday. Worshippers flock to the ornate temple with its three enormous golden Buddha statues, offering gifts of fresh fruit and fragrant flowers. The lanterns flutter in the light breeze, the names of Korea’s families dangling from them on a paper tag, with wishes for good luck and prosperity.

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